This is a T-shaped linen or woollen garment, flaring from underarms, bust or hips to create a full skirt of ankle length. Sleeves should be full length and tight to the wrist. They are often made over long so as to cover the hand and then worn rucked back. Rolling the sleeves up the arm is considered 'Unacceptable' as this should be impossible to do with authentically tight sleeves.
The collar line should be oval or round and tight to the neck, with just enough space to get your head through. A slit can be cut at the front to form a keyhole shape and closed by ties.
For an extra layer of warmth an over-dress can be worn over a dress. These are always worn under the head covering, never over it.
A woollen over-dress is similar to a dress but has loose sleeves that usually end just before the wrist exposing the rucked sleeves of the dress beneath although occasional examples can end mid forearm. During the Mid Period (AD 980-1040) a version of the over-dress was worn that had a shorter skirt so as to expose the hem of the dress.
Occasionally women are shown wearing an Over Dress with no visible dress beneath, although it is likely that they are still wearing an Under Shift.
A Woman in Generic Kit
These over dresses appear to be worn without a long sleeved dress beneath
Cambridge, Corpus Christi MS 23 fol.15v (GA)
Over Dress worn by the POOR
POOR Women are often depicted wearing a short mid-shin, mid forearm length Over Dress with no dress beneath. These woollen dresses would have been made from the cheapest natural coloured materials. Most probably natural sheep wool brown or grey. White wool was highly prized and would not have been available to the POOR. Even though they may be well patched and repaired they still would not have been left with frayed edges.
Hangerocks can only be worn by pagan Vikings. In Britain this would usually be a first generation settler. Hangerocks must not be worn at events after AD 979.
There are a number of Hangerock styles that can be worn: A-line style, wrap around with separate apron and the pleated Kostrup style. The front and back tabbard style as commonly seen in older books on the Vikings are considered Unacceptable.
No Hangerocks may be worn without accompanying tortoise brooches or other culturally correct paired brooches. The main alternatives to tortoise brooches are the Gotland animal headed brooches. These can only be worn by a character in distinctive Gotlandic kit. Gotlandic items must not be mixed with other Viking kit. Other alternatives could be disc brooches or converted Carolingian strap ends but these would have to be approved by the Authenticity Officer before being allowed. Trefoil brooches or equal armed brooches are not acceptable alternatives.
Women wearing hangerocks may only have one string of beads between the brooches except for those portraying a RICH woman who may have two.
A small disc brooch can be worn at the throat to close the neck of the dress or shift worn under the Hangerock. Viking disc brooches tend to be concave in cross section in contrast to the flat styles worn by English women.
Carolingian Over Dresses
Although referred to as a Carolingian dress this style also extend through the Ottonian period (950-1050) until finally being replaced by the Norman styles.
Carolingian Over Dress
by Louise Archer